Redhill to Paris – May 2009

As I was re-starting my cycle touring life, a ride from home to Paris seemed like a fun idea.  In a nutshell the plan was roughly: Home – Newhaven – Ferry – Avenue Verte – Paris (by way of the eastern Canal de l’Ourcq ) – Eurostar to London – Home. This was my first significant multi-day trip on a bike for nearly 40-years and, despite now being a regular cyclist, I was not sure how I would fair with the mileage day-after-day. I therefore decided to do keep the bike light and use pre-booked accommodation along the way.

Leaving Home

Leaving Home

There are of course many potential routes from London to Paris but the most popular uses NCR 21 via Redhill to Newhaven, then takes the Avenue Verte (AV) from Dieppe before swinging south and then entering Paris from the west.  However, I liked the look of the Canal de l’Ourcq and, as it turned out, this was a good choice.

The steepest hill on the trip is just down the road!

The steepest hill on the trip is just down the road!

Obviously I started from home in Redhill, just south of the M25 and already in nice cycling country. If, like many who undertake this ride, you were coming from central London I personally wouldn’t bother with that section, better take the train to Coulsdon, Merstham or Redhill and start from there – in my opinion the inner London part is not very pleasant, is slow and frankly unnecessary but to the purist I suppose it may have to be done.  It is a comfortable ride to Newhaven of about 45 miles from here but as the Transmanche (LD Lines) ferry usually leaves at 9.30am I stayed at the Telescombe YHA just outside Newhaven the previous evening.  It’s a small and old, flint built hostel up on top of the South Downs i.e. a bit of a climb but is very beautiful and very much in the spirit of the YHA as I remember it – unlike what’s left of the others. It was very quiet but interestingly I did meet a just retired GP who was walking around the coast of the southern UK to raise money for charity, putting to shame my little run to Paris.

Telescombe YHA - a real beauty

Telescombe YHA – a real beauty

The ferry crossing was a real pleasure, as always it punctuates the trip and gives real meaning to ‘going abroad’ when you step off the ship at the other end. As a re-born cycle tourist, this was my first experience of taking a loaded bike onto the very large ferry, juxtaposed to all the other road traffic and huge lorries, which was somewhat intimidating. This ferry company provides no real facilities for you bike, which is parked in a very poorly built, lightweight rack but all was well; on other occasions they’re just lashed to a bar running along the ships side.  However, whilst waiting to board and during the crossing itself, lots of people travelling by car approached me to discuss what I was doing and were very friendly, a nice change from the usual experience.  On this occasion and subsequent cycle tours, one of the unexpected pleasures has been the unsolicited contact that is made strangers and often their generosity.

Bike parking on the ferry is not good

Bike parking on the ferry is not good

Leaving Newhaven

Leaving Newhaven

Looks like arriving in Dieppe!

Looks like arriving in Dieppe!

The ferry got into Dieppe at about 2.30pm (there’s only one other daily ferry that gets in at 3.30am!), which therefore limits your miles in France for the day you arrive; this ride was in early May so I had light into early evening.  I sped off through Dieppe down the Avenue Verte (AV) cycle track and got to my B&B just south of Forges Les Eaux in La Belliere at 6.30pm but with hindsight that didn’t do the AV area justice; as a result I have subsequently returned to the AV region many times, based at a beautiful campsite just outside Arques-la-Bataille for day rides over a week or so.

dieppe bellierecrop

Avenue Verte Route – starts outside Dieppe

The B&B was run by a British family, she worked at Rouen University and he in the oil and gas industry.  The property was a charming Normandy house with renovated stables, in which I and my bike both stayed together.

B&B at Le Belliere

B&B at Le Belliere

Even my bike gets a room!

Even my bike gets a room!

Starting from La Belliere the next morning the countryside was cloaked in low mist, producing a very pleasant and atmospheric ride for the first hour.  Thereafter the sun came out and, as is so often in France, the ride turned from good to beautiful – quite roads, very good surfaces, considerate drivers and beautiful scenery, such a contrast to the UK and the reason I often find myself going back.

Beautiful, bucolic French cycling - pity about the traffic jam

Beautiful, bucolic French cycling – pity about the traffic jam

The second day turned out to be a bit too short as I arrived at the even more beautiful village of Silly Tillard too early.  I therefore found some shade under a tree and relaxed for a couple of hours before going to my evening’s stop, this time an old, renovated Normandy water mill.  This time my hosts were French and we had a wonderful family evening together, true to form dinner was excellent.

Silly by name, beautiful y nature.  An old water mill provides my bed for the second night in France.

Silly by name, beautiful by nature. An old water mill provides my bed for the second night in France.

The last day was not the most direct route to Paris but it misses what I understand to be an unavoidably complicated and built-up route from the west.  My route skirted round the north of Paris by Charles de Gaulle airport (bit windswept and industrial) to link up with the Canal de l’Ourcq – a charming 15 mile cycle path from the north east along the canal, which goes straight into the heart of Paris near Gare du Nord.

Sat down for a baguette lunch somewhere north of Paris and a parade and brass band turns up from nowhere and plays right in front of me!

Sat down for a baguette lunch somewhere north of Paris and a parade and brass band turns up from nowhere and plays right in front of me!

Made it

Made it

I stayed at a typical modern (plastic & characterless) European hotel on the outskirts of the city that night, with the objective of completing my ride at a leisurely pace along the canal the next morning before cycling round the city – with an inevitable ride down the Champs Elysee and a photograph of me and the Eifel Tower – before taking Eurostar back to London.

Much of the Canal de Ourcq looked like they had just laid it for me!

Much of the Canal de l’Ourcq looked like they had just laid it for me!

Wouldn't be Paris without  the grafitti

Wouldn’t be Paris without the grafitti

Compared to St Pancras, Gare du Nord is a mess and the arrangements for transporting your bike are not easy to discover but I made it.  In stark contrast to Paris, my ride across London from St Pancras to Victoria Station, was dangerous and unpleasant. Although I was born on the outskirts of London, strangely I think this was the first time I had cycled there – it is not a pleasure, the black cabs and buses are a menace, no wonder so many cycle accidents are happening.

Looks like I'm in the right place?

Looks like I’m in the right place?

In the Tour de France they race at +40 mph along the smooth gutter.  I stayed on the  cobbles and it was still fun.

In the Tour de France they race at +40 mph along the smooth gutter. I stayed on the cobbles and it was still fun.

It's behind you!

It’s behind you!

Looking back, it was a great ride and an excellent way to return to cycle touring – having a worthwhile objective at the end makes it all the more fulfilling when you get there.  All-in-all the ride was just over 200 miles with which I had no problem, in fact I wanted more!

Redhill To Paris May 2009 000 (Medium)


STATS – MAPS – STUFF

Tour: 5th to 9th May 2009, 4 days

Total Mileage: 214 miles

Maps:

I used Michelin 1:150,000 maps for the trip – No 304 and 305 – which were perfectly adequate, though they do not show topography – which wasn’t really a problem on this trip. I have since discovered French IGN maps (like Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 maps) but the detail they provide is not really necessary for such a ride.

Route:

(A) Redhill-Turners Hill-Lewes-Telescombe: 39 miles

From Redhill go via the A25 then south east via Smallfield.

B2028 through Turners Hill and continue south through Ardingly

@ Lindfield (just before the duckpond) TL onto B2111

TR at junction with A272

Then immediately left (50m) onto small lane to Wivelsfield

@ Wivelsfield TL (east) to Wivelsfield Green

Approx 600m TR onto lane (by school) and straight on (south east i.e. left): look for Heath Farm, and East Chilington on the map

TL @ B2116 along base of South Downs and SO to main road

TR @ A275 towards Lewes

Where the road splits going into Lewes keep straight on (right) up the hill

@ Cross road /traffic lights (opposite prison) SO down v steep hill on road to Newhaven

(this runs along the east side of the River Ouse Valley through Ilford, Southease & Piddinghoe)

(B) Dieppe to Paris, 146 miles:

Click Below For Google Map Routes: 

PLACE DIRECTIONS / NOTES MILES
Dieppe TR out of port Quai Gaston Lalitte
Quai de le Marne with port on right
TL on Rue Guerrier before bridge then @ x5 way junction take LF onto Rue du Mont de Neuville continuing onto Rue Emile Lebon
FR on to Rue Albert Lebel
Thibernot Continues onto Rue du Gen de Gaulle and under D485 to Thibernot
Martin-Eglise On to Rue du Monestere then to Martin-Eglise
D1 Rue Henri IV to Archelles
Just outside Archelles FR on Rue des Launays joining Avenue Verte (or TL @ D149 before St-Aubyn-le-Cauf). Continue along track .
Neufchatel Take Avenue Verte which runs into Forges on the D1314 25
Forges-les-Eaux D915 out of Forges (to Gournay) @ 1.8m TL on D61 to Le Belliere 35
Continue on D61 then D120 to Haussez, Les Ravines, Hyaumet @ Beuvreuil take D8 then D916 to Gournay-en-Bray
Gournay-en-Bray N31 take first right just out of town to Douce-Rue or St Germer-de-Fly 59
TL onto D129 then shortly after onto D109 to St Aubin-en-Bray
Auneuil Continue on the D109 then join D2 to Auneuil
Auteuill D2 to Auteuill 75
Noailles D2 to Noailles (Silly-Tillard just before)
Take D44 to Cauvigny
And on to Ully-St-Georges & PSO 98
Precy-sur-Oise Cross D603 / 92 to D17
D909 cross D924
TL approx 1m onto D118
TR @ 0.6m onto D316 / D1016 for short distance
TL on to D118 again to Orry-la-Ville
Plailly Cross A1 on D118 to Plailly 112
South on minor road to Vemars
TL on D26 to Moussy-le-Neuf
Then Moussy-le-Vieux
Villeneuve-s/s-Dammartin Cross D401 still on D26 to Villeneuve
Continue on D26 to Thieux then Compans
Villeparisis D9 into Mitry Mory and TL down to Villeparisis 131
Paris centre Take canal 146

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3 Responses to Redhill to Paris – May 2009

  1. Pingback: My Cycling Idyll | Round The Bend

  2. Pingback: London Calling | Round The Bend

  3. Pingback: Redhill to Newhaven | Round The Bend

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