Although a Londoner by birth and then in my teenage years, I was brought up as a child in Corfe Mullen, then a small village located in East Dorset. It’s changed a lot since that time but then so have I, however, Dorset remains a county close to my heart and somewhere I often return to. Despite or perhaps because of its poor communications, much of the county retains its ye olde charm, particularly West Dorset but there’s much more. We went back again recently for a week’s cycling and other activities in West Dorset, focussed this time on the county town of Dorchester.
We camped near Moreton, 7-miles east of Dorchester, as a central base from which to explore the surrounding area by bike, always the best way to get to know an area. Outlined are two rides of about 25-miles in length + some highlights of other places that are also well worthwhile visiting:
Ride-1: Moreton to Weymouth via Dorchester & Hardy’s Monument
NCR2 passes close to the campsite and therefore was the obvious route into Dorchester. We used this a few times to ‘commute’ into and out of town and on one occasion were fortunate to find that the Landmark Trust were holding their annual open day at the 14th century Woodsford Castle. Dating from 1335, the building was then significantly fortified leading up to the Hundred Years Was with France in 1337. The building seen today includes extensions added between 1370 to 90 by Sir Guy de Bryan. With an almost 700-year history the term “if walls could talk” comes to mind and as a Landmark Trust building it’s possible for anyone to stay overnight here and experience this magnificent building which overlooks the River Frome.
Different tribes initially lived in the Dorchester area since 4,000 BC but it was the arrival of the Romans in 70 AD that really put the town on the map, then known as Durnovaria. Today Dorchester is the county town of Dorset and in my opinion the very model of perfect small English town. Apart from all the usual facilities and more expected of such a town, some unique features make Dorchester well worth a visit.
Not surprisingly the long history of Dorchester is reflected in its rich architecture, and it is a pleasure to just walk or cycle around – 293 structures are listed by Historic England! Tucked away behind the Dorset County Council (County Hall) is the only exposed Roman town house in the country. While nearby, on London Road the recently refurbished Dorset Museum is a must visit (see above), for its county history and excellent geology section, the latter containing some great fossil specimens from Dorset’s Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage site.
The ride continues out of Dorchester along the NCR2, leaving in a south-west direction on a recently refurbished cycle track that crosses the lower slopes of Maiden Castle, a major Iron Age hill fort. Thereafter, the NCR2 passes through the charming village of Martinstown and then on to the high point of the ride, quite literally. Climbing steeply up the windswept north facing chalk slopes the road reaching its zenith at Hardy’s Monument (see above image). At 850 ft (260m) above sea level the location provides what is perhaps the best views in Dorset, which on the day we were there went as far as the Needles on the Isle of Wight. Not to be confused with Dorset’s other Hardy (also Thomas) the novelist and poet, the 72ft monument at the top is in memory of Vice-Admiral Thomas Hardy, flag captain of HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar but also famous for holding the dying Nelson in his arms, when he said, “kiss me Hardy”.
Soon after descending southwards from the monument towards Chesil Beach, it’s time to leave NCR2. Shortly thereafter turn left at Portesham onto a small lane heading east, this road traverses the hill slope most of the way to Upwey, with stunning views of Chesil Beach on the right and Portland Bill in the far distance (see main image at the top of the page) – altogether making a spectacular ride.
Afterwards either head north back towards Dorchester on the B3159 or as we did roll downhill into Weymouth for some beach time and an ice cream. Finally, we returned directly back to the campsite in Moreton by train and a well-earned dinner and beer at the adjacent Frampton Arms pub.
Ride-2: Dorchester North Loop
Starting again on the NCR2 but this time taking a lane northward shortly before reaching Woodsford Castle which crosses the River Frome before climbing upwards to end in Puddletown on the river Piddle (previously called Piddletown). Though a pleasant archetypical Dorset village, it’s a little too close to the noisy A35 for my liking, so we crossed the main road and navigated our way to Charminster, a beautiful village that straddles a small tributary of the River Frome, which provided an idyllic lunch stop (see image below); whilst sitting there two horses entered and walked along the stream before exiting 200m, obviously an everyday event in Charminster!
Leaving Charminster, first follow the NCR26 northwards along the A37 before turning left into the village of Bradford Peverell, then turn left again to join the route of a Roman road which leads directly back to the centre of Dorchester. Return from the town centre either back on the NCR2 route, or south on the NCR26 then northeast along the South Winterbourne River to eventually re-join the NCR2 back to Moreton.
For navigation on these rides and other locations in the region use the Ordnance Survey Landranger Map 194 – Dorchester & Weymouth
Other notable locations visited in the area included:
Hardy’s Cottage – the author’s home located not far from Puddletown.
T E Lawrence’s (Lawrence of Arabia) grave at St Nicholas’ Church in Moreton village and his house Cloud’s Hill near Bovington (see below).
Bovington Tank Museum – my wife’s grandfather was a First World War tank commander at the battle of the Somme, making our visit to this excellent museum especially poignant.
Lulworth Cove & Durdle Door – as geologists my wife and I have spent many happy days along this section of the Jurassic Coast and its beauty never disappoints. However, since my earlier visits it has noticeably become part of the international tourist’s trail, not unlike Stonehenge and Westminster Abbey! Notwithstanding, a swim through the Door is always a pleasure – though we’ll try and go at a quieter moment next time.
Durlston Country Park – located just south of Swanage, a cliff-top walk below the castle provides stunning views east to the Isle of Wight and south across the English Channel. Go on a sunny day, like we did, and it feels like the Mediterranean coast; the food at the Seventh Wave café in the castle is worth a stop too.
Although I’ve been to Dorset many times since I lived there, I was pleasantly surprised at some of the delights that we discovered on this trip, in particular Dorchester itself and already can’t wait to go back again.
Round The Bend 